Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Thing Two

Here's something I didn't consider. In Maplewood, and in Northampton, I expect the best. When I'm lying in bed at night with my head by the window, and from far away in the dark I hear a scream, I assume its some jackass kid running amok. I hear a bang and thing "car backfiring". I hear lots of raised voices and think "someone's having a late night tonight".

Not here. Yesterday I was lying in bed and I heard a blast and the sound of shattering glass. I'm 99% sure it was a gun going off. I assumed from the start it was a gun going off. I sat up and listened hard while the rest of the night echoed in the silence left by the shot and my ears started playing tricks on me. Or maybe they didn't. But its enough to make you go crazy. I hear screams and I hear shouts and I hear what sounds like women crying and the school children here never stop yelling and every noise that lights up the night with sound is a gun firing.

But it is. We are right next to two different army barracks. We are surrounded by abandoned buildings and the hollow shells of bricks and mortar that use to be houses and churches and schools. There isn't shattered glass in the windows because glass was never there to start out with. There isn't spray paint scarring the sides of the buildings-just charcoal graffiti on the insides, pictures of Jesus, pictures of Allah. There isn't abandoned things-because anything usable has long since been stripped from its place. Most buildings don't have a roof, the ones that do have drooping tin, poised like a knife pointing down at the ground, ready to fall. Women and children live around the broken walls and families live right up to the edges of the barracks and children play in the empty church. 4 out of 10 men walk around with guns slung over their shoulders-sometimes more depending on where you are.

This isn't a sterile place. Its endlessly touchable. Bare feet touch every surface-from the cement floor of the patio to the coarse rocks and rubble of the road. There are no screens to keep out bugs. No glass to keep out people. Nothing cutting you off or restricting you from going anywhere and doing anything. Even the roadblocks are just long sticks propped up against two trees. Roadblocks you could snap with the touch of your bumper. The only thing stopping you is violence. Guns and mines and dangerous men. If it weren't for those things, I think you could do almost anything here.
And so people do. When you see a fire, its a big fire, quenched and coaxed by diesel. When you hear a sharp crack tear through the air, its a gunshot. And you never know why people are screaming. For all I know it could be of laughter, and I try to teach my ears to tell the difference between mirth and pain. But from far away, its hard, and it makes an overactive American mind go wild.

So I am lying in bed and I hear the gun and the glass shatter and then the vacuum of silence. And then, to my straining ears, comes the sound of crying and shouting. The crickets chirp too loudly to tell. I hear a baby cry and a woman yell, and then a blur of angry voices, but soon enough it blends seamlessly into the rise and fall of my breath, going in and out of me and I don't know what I've heard because everything here ends without definition. It fades.

9 comments:

Anonymous said...

Please do not get shot!
Those sounds are normal in too many parts of the world, including cities in the US. I hate guns!

sunlara said...

well written. could be an essay/article or something

Unknown said...

Wow. Your blog is filled with insights that you could turn into a book - should turn into a book, because others deserve to hear them. Need to hear them.

Because you are not recycling cliches. That is one of the features of your observations and your words that I find powerful. The best writers - the best observers, writer or non- don't fall back on cliches. First, they do not fall back on cliches in their own insight, their own introspection and self-analysis. Faced with some difficult to articulate - hell, some difficult to even feel - emotion, perception, observation, they do not grab some low-hanging verbiage to hang onto it as a way to explain it quickly and then shoo it away, so that they can put the discomfort and fear behind them as quickly as possible. They accept that something else is going on inside, something that they can not quite put into words, but something important and worth understanding.

And then they muddle their way through to an understanding, an understanding that may eventually wind up expressed in words, but words that come closer to the underlying sensibility of the thing. Words that are better than "why can't we all just be friends" or "they hate us for our freedom" or "what do you expect from those sorts of people." Words that say "I have just learned in another way how different this place is from where I come from and I find a new part of me that can be unsettled and frightened and I do not know what to make of it."

You have found, yet again, something important here, something worth sharing and refining, because what you are working on is such a profound truth for those of us back home. "This is not America. This is a place worth inhabiting and a place worth knowing - but put America behind you because your sense of how the world works will not help you here."

I am impressed, as always, and moved. And filled with love & admiration. You don't push it all away.

Tons and tons of love -

/dad

smisch said...

i think we should publish your sudan memoirs.
seriously, and word to your dad.

xoxo

smisch said...

also how do you make the text in the body of your blog smaller and in a different font, the way you did? mine keeps making me think of 2nd grade.

Meg Schmitt said...

emma-

I'm sorry I've been awful at the you post I post thing. I've been sucking at updating my own blog. I just skipped ahead in yours and read this entry. Sometime this weekend (I hope) I might be able to stop by the internet again and catch up on everything. I really want to read it all.

I miss you so so much and miss hearing your insights in person. But I can hear you speaking when I read your writing, which is comforting. I love you and am forever impressed and proud. I think this comments of cliches will disappoint your dad, sorry for that.

I have a lot to update everyone on too. Including two full days of home visits, finally. Intense. I'll make more comments on your entries soon. Love you.

Anonymous said...

Wow, Emma....

Very insightful.... and chilling. I agree with your dad 100%. Your thoughts and perceptions are unique and fascinating.

Stay safe!

Hugs,
Becky

Anonymous said...

Well it seems you're living up to the break through novel expectations! That was a beautiful passage. Greetings from Cairo! I'm thinking of you guys as I try to navigate taxis in arabic and cross a street of constantly moving traffic - I know Cairo is nothing like S. Sudan, but its the closest I've come so far... Cant wait to see you guys for our safari! I hope you're all feeling better (I read about the diseases in the next post). Tell George and Neesha I say hello!
Love, Elizabeth

Anonymous said...

I had to wipe away a few tears!! Sorry I haven't been reading regualrly but when I do get time to catch up I am always entertained, this one was particularly heart-wrenchingly beautifully written and I could so and hear evrything you were describing along with you..

LOVE BUSI